CTN joined the first fam to preview an all-new itinerary on the waterways of southern India.

Women in jewel-bright saris wash clothes at the water’s edge and children wave from the bank. A distinctive white-chested brahminy kite soars silently overhead and around the next bend in the narrow waterway, we come across the extraordinary sight of hundreds of ducks bobbing in front of the boat as a farmer herds them to their overnight shelter.

Welcome to the Kerala backwaters, a labyrinth of lush rivers, canals, lakes and lagoons, lying parallel to the Arabian Sea. One to three-night cruises have traditionally been the way to see this part of southern India, often combined with a beach stay in Goa or land-based tour.

That has now changed with the launch of the largest hotel-boat – the nine-cabin Vaikundam – offering the longest cruises in the region. Sold through UK GSA Fred River Cruises, the seven-night sailings are the brainchild of Sanjay Basu, co-founder and chairman of India specialist Far Horizon Tours.

An adventurer at heart who has scaled seven Himalayan peaks, Sanjay is no stranger to personal and professional pioneering ventures and has spearheaded cruises on the fast-flowing Brahmaputra river with a specially-designed vessel to handle strong currents.

Aboard the Vaikundam vessel

Five UK travel agents experienced his latest venture on the refitted and rebuilt Vaikundam, which has a new hull enabling it to navigate Cochin’s tidal estuary and provide cruises from the vibrant city to Alleppey in the Kerala backwaters, and in reverse.

The heritage style vessel, with an 18:10 ratio of passengers to crew, is decked out with wood, brass fittings and antique furnishings. A sun deck, again the largest of its kind on the backwaters, is going to be installed and there is a room for Indian Ayurveda massages.

Cabins – one double and the rest twin-bedded – are equipped with tea and coffee making facilities, hairdryer, safe, quality toiletries, robes and slippers.

“I bought the cabin doors from old palaces and royal buildings,” explained Sanjay. “In fact, I bought the first door before I built the boat!

“The Indian government has been pushing for more waterways to become navigable and I saw the potential for longer cruises on a larger boat. Some of the canals are very narrow and I hired a boat and went out measuring the height and width of bridges with a bamboo pole to make sure Vaikundam would fit.”

The itinerary, which can be sold as a cruise-only or with a land-based stay, and all excursions are accompanied by a guide who stays on board for the duration. Meals showcase diverse Indian cuisine and entertainment includes music and dance performances.

Agent feedback

Product and marketing manager at Blue Water Holidays, Kathryn Pollitt, said: “Far Horizon’s new cruise combines scenic cruising with visits to remote villages, far away from India’s typical tourist hotspots.

“Most house-boat cruises are for just two or three nights, but this new seven-night cruise means the itinerary is more relaxed, with plenty of daytime cruising and it also showcases more of the fascinating area.

“The scenic cruising was one of my highlights as it’s the best way to see typical village life and each day was different. We’d pass the villagers collecting coconuts on a canoe or washing their clothes in the river, small boats dropping off school children at the houses along the waterways or women coir weaving with coconut fibre in their riverside gardens, all going about their day-to-day life and blissfully unaware of the tourists passing by.

“I loved walking through villages and seeing how welcoming the locals were, and the impromptu invitation into a small school to meet the pupils was another highlight. The visits to the Hindu temples and Syrian-Christian churches were another key part of this itinerary and gave me an insight into how religion is a big part of life for people in Kerala.

“I also enjoyed sampling the delicious traditional cuisine, even trying to eat it the ‘Kerala way’ – with our hands – which was certainly a hilarious experience I will never forget!

“The cruise is ideal for the more adventurous traveller who is looking for somewhere new and different to explore, off-the-beaten-track. The itinerary has the perfect combination of relaxing cruising, with excursions to remote villages, ornate temples and churches, local craftsmen and fantastic cultural performances.”

General manager at The Luxury Cruise Company, Scott Anderson, added: “The longer itinerary and stronger hull allows the Vaikundham to cross India’s largest freshwater lake, Vembanad, and we had a memorable water safari along the lagoons of Kumarakom, spotting purple herons, bee-eaters, woodpeckers, egrets, kingfisher and other birds.

“The smaller traditional boats cannot traverse the lake as they are only designed for the gentle backwaters. Before coming I had no idea just how much bird life there would be so this is perfect for twitchers or wildlife lovers. We also saw a water snake!

“Another aspect I hadn’t appreciated was the incredibly delicious food on board. All sourced locally and organic, the array of cuisine on offer was exceptional and delicious. Authentic recipes, mostly vegetarian, were served up buffet style for all meals, and meat courses were also served, fish of course but also chicken, mutton and shrimps.

“The mixture of cruising, cultural performances, local craft visits and smaller riverboat trips provided a complete picture of the Kerala backwaters. The longer duration also allowed afternoons or mornings ‘at sea’ gently cruising along with local life on display along the banks. Getting the chance to eat with a local family was also an opportunity you wouldn’t get anywhere else.

“Vaikundam is comfortable and homely with the forward open sun deck the place to be for bird spotting and to take in the views. The lounge area and restaurant all on the top deck were comfy and well air-conditioned. Cabins were cosy and a lot smaller than European riverboats, but very comfy and you’re not in the cabin much after all.”

Fred River Cruises offers a seven-night cruise aboard Vaikundam departing 17 April 2020, from £999pp cruise only. A 13-night land-cruise itinerary taking in Hyderabad, Hampi and Cochin is priced from £3,149pp, including flights. For more information, visit fredrivercruises.co.uk.